Amsterdam Day 1
Van Goph Museum Tour
We started our day with a nice breakfast at the Hotel Alexander, situated in the Museumsplein district, it is tree lined, picturesque and still a jump away from the center of the city. All around the hotel area are historic buildings, as is much of Amsterdam. Notably, the 7 sisters buildings, each representing a different country of Europe in their archeituchture are just around the block. The forecast foretold possible rain but at the present we were treated to springlike conditions. After breakfast we walked a few blocks over to the museums and join the queue for the Vincent Van Goph museum. The weather was cooperating with us so far, it was chilly, with big fluffy white clouds and a little windy but looked like a gorgeous day ahead.
This museum, founded by his nephew to preserve his artwork and legacy to the art world is 3 levels dedicated to his study, inspirations, talent, artistic expression and masterpieces. The accompanying audio guide helped illuminate the many pieces, for instance, in the self-portrait room, to the casual observer it would appear a self-center artist painting his likeness over and over again. However, in truth it was his practice in color and expression, emotion, brush strokes and a simple fact that models needed to be paid.
We weaved our way through the rooms, marveling at his approach to capturing humble pheasant life, the simple beauty of nature and understand how light effects shadows which changes colors. I will not spoil the rest of the wonders that await you, for his masterpieces of the his room, the irises and his final pieces of haystacks truly showcase the Impressionism master his heralded and the hint of what lay ahead with abstracts touches. His short career held so much work that the museum was bursting with it and the two hours we spent flew by. We emerged a little speechless at first, and then our conversations about what we experienced continued with us for the rest of the week, coming out in bits and pieces over dinners and at train stops.
Market Shopping
We next made our way through town to the Albert Cuypstraat Market, an open air market along the Cuypstraat street where store fronts have spilled out into the street and food stalls are set up one by one so that every square foot is maxed out.
We strolled down the street taking in the sights, sounds and smells. The market was thriving and jumping with tourists and locals of all types. We stopped to pick up some ripe strawberries to snack on as we shopped. We have an inside travel joke about strawberries, they will always remind us of Paris. We agreed these were good, but not as good, and smile at the memory. We eyed all the food stalls and made mental notes on which ones we wanted to circle back to for lunch, because we had a date with a Stroopwaffle!
Stroopwaffles are a Dutch national treasure. A thin waffle sliced open with melt caramel drizzled inside. They are delicious and served warmed. You can decorate them with chocolate and candies on top but as we learned the traditional Stroopwaffle is simple and honestly the best.
We joined a Stroopwaffle making class on the Cuypstreet. We traded our jackets for aprons in a class of about 20 others from all over Europe and the US. We enjoyed a wonderful experience where we mixed our dough with measured ingredients and then over piping hot waffle irons pressed out the waffles. Skillfully slicing them in two and applying heaping spoonfuls of caramel to the insides. They provided plenty of toppings as well. Melted dark and milk chocolate, crushed candy bars like toffee, marshmallows and sprinkles. We mixed, laughed, sticky and sweet dough everywhere. We each made two Stroopwaffles and as they cooled, talked with our other classmates over coffees and teas, getting to know a little bit about them and their traveling. And of course sampling the Stroopwaffle! So yummy!
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Meandering the Streets of Amsterdam
We spent the next few hours with no real plan other than letting our feet take us where they wanted. We strolled on through the streets, over bridges connecting canals and into different neighborhoods filled with small coffee shops lining the streets. We were beginning to understand the rhythm of the city. Like how the bike lanes have their own dedicated paths separated from the cars and the sidewalks and even their own light system. The distinction is subtle to the untrained, but with a little practice even I begin to notice the small hand signals, and head nods. Otherwise, you might think you cleared the street crossing, the trolly tracks and multiple pedestrian lights only to walk straight into the speeding bike lanes with cyclist zooming by at 25 mph.
We walked through the floating flower market which was a beautiful display of floral variety on display. There were so many tulip bulbs for sale in a rainbow of colors. We discovered that you can only bring how official bulbs through customs with a seal and none of these had that seal, so we reluctantly moved on.
The shopping in Amsterdam is unbelievable. I was unprepared for it, the girls were in general heaven. We were in and out of vintage shops, books stores, toy shops for Pokémon cards that were actually in stock and not over priced. A few more hours of this and our legs were beat up and in need of a break. So we found the nearest trolly and jumped on it toward the hotel for a much needed rest before dinner.
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Evening Canal Tour
Capt Jacks Canal Tour
The only way to see the city is by boat. At least that is what the website for Captain Jacks Canal Tours said anyway. It also said that Captain Jack may not be the actually captain on the boat that you book, so that is what type of tourist they are dealing with on a daily basis.
The boat was stocked with snacks and drinks for everyone onboard to have a good time. Even though we boarded at 9:00pm, the sun was still out, but the light was fading fast and we hoped to catch the sunset and the city as the lights came on. Our boat captain Lon, a lifelong Amsterdam native was great. Very knowledgeable, funny, generous and kind. Each turn offered another glimpse into the past and insight of the present day. We passed through all the districts and well known neighbors and our Captain had a story for each spot. The Red Light, the Jordaan, the Centraal and the super richly rich. As the sun dipped lower, the glow of the light illuminated the clouds a bright orange and vibrant yellow. It was stunning and the timing was perfect as we came into the main canal and more open water we could see the city sky line silhouetted against sunset. Then the clouds grew a littler darker as we turned back into the city, the lights of the canals turned on and we felt the first small rain drops. Nothing to worry says Capt Lon, it is Amsterdam, it will rain and soon pass. He handed out ponchos and passed around umbrellas. Everyone laughed and joked as we quickly covered just in time for a summertime downpour. The boat sheltered under a bridge, a few loud bolts snapped and then it passed. The drinks and snacks on board kept us well hydrated and happy and when we pulled into the dock everyone waved goodbye to new friends. Thanks Capt Jacks! It was memorable!
