Sunday in Ghent, Belgium
Tour of Gravensten Castle
The town of Ghent is something else. We kept saying as we walk through the small streets lined with shops, restaurants and chocolateteers, “What is this town?” It has towering medieval walls and steeples rising over 3 and 4 story hotels, apartments and businesses. The views down the streets are stunning and the crowds of people walking up and down are impressive. It’s a dramatic contradiction of ancient and modern, or quiet and loud, of new and old and to the residents, it just seems normal. I’m a little envious that they have all this history right at their feet and they don’t take it for granted at all. They are very proud of it and it shows as we made our way towards the older section of town, across one of the many bridges over the Leie and Lieve Rivers to the front entry of Gravensteen Castle, or Castle of the Counts, the 12th century fortress of Count Philip of Alsace (1168-1191), built in 1180.
Smacked right in the middle of town, the castle is legitimate and one of the main reasons I lobbied for Ghent as a destination.
“It’s a freaking castle! Right in the middle of town!” I remember saying.
The tour of the castle was a fun because it included an audio tour narrated by a local comedian that offered colorful commentary, sound effects for reenactments, along with historical facts. The views from the top were incredible but the torture chamber and implements of death in the dungeons were our favorite. The castle was very impressive and we were able to have free rain to ramble around its rooms and ramparts listening to the tour at our own pace. It was along the walls that we came to the a large covered alcove that extended out and over the river down below. Inside were two stone benches with holes cut out in them. I knew instantly what it was. Any dad should recognize this room, it’s their space to think, to plan, to read, to get some alone time, its the true Throne Room. I quickly take my seat and the girls lose it!
Ghent by Boat
After spending our time weaving through the castle corridors and rooms, it was a nice change of pace to board the small river boats that were running up and down the rivers in Ghent for relaxing cruise through the city. Seeing the city from this vantage point, while also having the luxury of a guide was a great way to give our feet a rest. The sun was peeking in and out of the clouds and it felt nice and warm on my face as the morning chill gave way to afternoon. The boats were marketed as hop on and hop off and we thought it would be nice to motor along, find a nice cafe, jump off and grab a nice lunch. The guide, a local who’s name I can’t remember, but was funny, kept pointing out different buildings of note and historical significance. However, he didn’t seem to slow down at any of them. We passed dock after small dock with other tour boats tied up at. Maybe we are supposed to let him know that we wanted to hop off?I offered to ask, but my wife didn’t want me to rock the boat. Plus, we weren’t in any hurry and it was a really nice day, so we just enjoyed the ride and laughed at the fact that we got on the worlds worst hop on, hop off boat ride ever.
Focaccia for lunch
We offloaded from the boat and went looking for some lunch. Tempting as it was by the numerous chocolatiers shops, we sensibly stepped into a Focaccia sandwich shop and ordered two, an eggplant with mozzarella and margherita. Many of the buildings were built in the 16th and 17th centuries and are still in use today. The oldest going back to 1421! Our sandwich shop was in a building older than our country. We sat outside on the street side table enjoying the sun and people watching as we refueled. We could hear French, Dutch, English accents and even Americans talking as they walked by. My wife and I kept nudging my daughter, who has been studying French in school, what they were saying and was able to pick up quite a bit. The number of dogs enjoying the day also took us by surprise as well. They were so well behaved in the crowds, and looked right at home.
Ghent Belfry
Our next step through time was a climb to the top of the Ghent Belfry. This is a towering building across the cathedral square in the center of town that houses the massive bells we hear ringing earlier in the day. There are stairs that lead all the way to the top and it looks like there should be some fantastic vies of the city from up there. I should go back and explain that we purchased a kinda of city pass from the main tourist office of Ghent that gains us access to all the main attractions of the city. The pass really was a good deal and it left out the discussion around which things we should do in the city. Now it became sort of a game of “how many can we see in two days.” We all like a little challenge too. So now, as we are standing in front of hundred of stairs to the top, it’s like, “we got the passes, let’s do it!”
We entered this huge empty hall on the first floor with marble floors and exposed wood beams. Finding the door that leads to the stones stairs winding their way up the center of the massive square building in the corner we begin to climb well worn steps. As we climbed our way to the second floor we entered into a massive room where there is a huge brass dragon in the center. Hand hammered and riveted together is was a sight to see and very unexpected. As we circled around it taking pictures and studying its details we notice an odd modern contraption in the other corner of the room. Coming down from the ceiling was a glass rectangular shaft that extended all the way to the floor. “Is that an elevator?” My wife asked surprised. Sure enough, it was. I was thinking that it was nice that even here, in this very old building in Belgium, there were thinking about accessibility. Then we saw a sign at the front of it that told us it was a one way trip up to the top for everyone. Skeptically we pressed the button, and watched as an elevator car descended to our the floor and the doors opened with a ding. We entered and as we started to climbed we laughed! This is going to be easier than we thought. The stairs, we learned later, are reserved for the way down. What a treat! And a treat it was because the views on top were amazing. Encompassing a 360’ view around the building we could see every which way across the city. To the Castle of Counts to the East, St. Michaels Cathedral to the West and directly in front the square between the Belfry and St. Bravo’s Cathedral. We spent a few minutes on top taking pictures. My wife, who is not a fan of heights did great but was ready to get back down. We headed down the spiral stairs. Navigating down took some careful steps, they were very narrow and a tight squeeze, but we were back on the ground in no time. We made our way across the square to our next destination. The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb which is a masterpiece painted by Van Eyck Brothers.
